

I descended the other side, turned onto a dirt road for four miles, drove through a brook,

and set up my free bandit camp at the actual headwaters of the Salmon River, just as the sun set. What a sight. Soup and tea for dinner in my solitary little tent, snug as a bug in my favorite sleeping bag.
It went down to 22 degrees by dawn, and I was out of camp fast the next morning, driving a few miles down the valley to where the Salmon turns into a real river, and in the early-morning sun I soaked in the hot springs


that feed into the Salmon. The springs are about 150 degrees, so you find a mixed pool at a temperature that suits you. Steam everywhere, warming sun, natural hot-tub water, Salmon River… ahhhh!

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